Highlights include the rare Yellowhead, the special South Island Saddleback, South Island Robins, Rifleman and Tomtits, and an island paradise seething with birdlife.
Although this is the south of the south, Ulva Island (or Te Wharawhara) is an accessible day trip from the town of Invercargill on New Zealand’s mainland, offshore to Rakiura or Stewart Island. (A regular ferry service also runs between Invercargill's port of Bluff, and Stewart Island).
Water Taxi to the Island
The day starts with a flight from Invercargill across Foveaux Strait to Oban on Stewart Island, and a walk or local transport to nearby Golden Bay for the water taxi across to Ulva Island in Paterson Inlet.
Most of Ulva’s 260ha is part of the Rakiura National Park, and is managed by the Department of Conservation as an open sanctuary. This allows public access to the island which is a protected bird sanctuary that excludes pest predators such as possums, deer, goats, cats and rats.
There is a network of tracks across and around the island, and all of these are easy to explore for most moderately fit people, in a day visit. The water taxi arrives at the Wharf at Post Office Bay, and a clockwise trip around the island starts with the coastal walk on the left to Flagstaff Point and along the beach at Sydney Cove (about 30 minutes).
Kaka and Weka Encounter
The first birds to greet you may be the Island’s Kaka parrot population that are often seen feeding among the rimu, miro and totara trees and heard calling raucously as they wheel about the upper canopy. Other familiar birds on Ulva include the Tui, Bellbird, Fantail, and Kereru that are common in most New Zealand rainforests.
Along the beach you may encounter the Stewart Island Weka that often forages along the tide line. These weka may be encountered anywhere on the island, as they are opportunists, feeding on anything from small crabs and birds eggs, to lizards and insects.
They are shy, but easy to observe from a distance, and sometimes bold enough to approach people and check out their bags. Weka are flightless, but known to be able to swim for anything up to a kilometre and walk long distances.
Coastal to Forest Highlights
The Variable Oystercatcher is a reasonably common coastal wader that also inhabits the shoreline of Ulva, foraging along the beach and in rock pools for aquatic molluscs and insects.
From the south end of the beach take the track that leads inland (25 minutes). Along this track, keep watch for a family of Morepork owls inhabiting the darker, denser bush areas. Morepork hunt mostly at night, but these small owls are often seen roosting during the day.
At the inland track intersection, take the Nature Walk on your left, down to Boulder Beach (about 30 minutes). Birds to watch out for along this section include the South Island Saddleback or Tieke with it’s striking black plumage and red saddle across the wings. Tieke may be seen foraging in the leaf litter or up tree trunks and boughs for insects.
Rare South Island Saddleback
The South Island Saddleback is very rare, and is especially distinctive from the North Island sub-species in that it has a juvenile phase. The young “Jackbirds” have a uniform brown plumage, that moults out to the adult plumage after the first year. Another distinction is the pale yellow fringe line along the upper edge of the saddle in the adult South Island sub-species.
Saddlebacks have a distinctive ‘laughing‘ call, and are fast and active foragers, often seen on or around tree ferns.
When you get to Boulder Beach, turn right and walk to the north end, taking the West End Beach Track (30 minutes). Look out for the small pied Tomtits (Miromiro) with their short trill call, and listen for the high-pitched zeet zeet of Rifleman (Tititipounamu), and the shrill cheeping of Brown Creepers (Pipipi).
From Cuckoo to Mohua
In spring and summer, you may also hear and maybe encounter, the Shining Cuckoo (or Pipiwharauroa) with it’s long descending call. Shining Cuckoo lay their eggs in the nests of the tiny Grey Warblers (Riroriro).
The rare endemic, Yellowhead or Mohua, is also present on the island, but in very small numbers. They tend to be heard in the canopy tops, so are often difficult to spot despite their bright yellow plumage, but listen for the distinctive “buzz” call of the female.
West End Beach with its views up Paterson Inlet, is a nice place to stop for lunch. There are usually Weka on the beach, and often Stewart Island Shags can be seen fishing or flying in the inlet. From the beach, the return walk starts along the track to Post Office Bay and takes about an hour and 20 minutes direct back to the wharf, but allow longer if you are bird watching.
Kakariki and Southern Kiwi
This part of the track through mature southern rainforest, is good for all forest birds, so allow time to sit and watch Saddlebacks, maybe spot a jackbird, and spend quality time with the confiding South Island Robins.
Other birds on the Island include the chattering Kakariki that maybe seen foraging for seeds on the ground or roosting in tree ferns. Ulva has both the red and yellow-crowned sub-species of these small green Cynoramphus parakeets.
Another avian inhabitant of Ulva Island - one that you are less likely to encounter on a daytime visit - is the Stewart Island Brown Kiwi or Tokoeka.
If you can stay longer on Stewart Island, there are guided evening Kiwi-watching tours available from the township of Oban in Halfmoon Bay, and a visit to the Department of Conservation (DOC) visitor centre is recommended for other local bird-watching opportunities (including a coastal pelagic).
Day Tramp to Mason Bay
Another way to see the Tokoeka, is a day tramp (or hike) to Mason Bay, staying overnight at the DOC hut there, and returning the same way the next day. A water taxi can be booked to take you to Freshwater Landing at the start of the track to Mason Bay (and pick you up at a pre-arranged return time next afternoon).
At the beach end of the walk, it is not unusual to see Tokoeka out foraging in the morning and evenings, either in the wetlands or along the beach and sand dunes at Mason Bay. Along the track you are also likely to encounter the South Island Fernbird and other birdlife such as South Island Robins and Bellbirds. If you are staying at the DOC hut at Mason Bay you will need a sleeping bag, and food, as a minimum.
References
Ulva Island Guide booklet, published by the Ulva Island Trust and the Department of Conservation, October 2007.
Trip to Ulva Island, Oban and Mason Bay on Stewart Island in January 2008.
The Field Guide to the Birds of New Zealand, Heather and Robinson, 1997.
